The tool bench
Height and trunk caliper in, pot dimensions out — the proportion rule potters have used for decades, with the arithmetic handled.
enter height and trunk caliper — the pot dimensions appear here
After the math
Measure honestly before you trust the output: height runs from the soil line to the apex — not from the table — and caliper is the trunk's thickness just above the nebari (the visible surface roots). Those two numbers drive everything.
Pots come in fixed sizes, so treat the result as a target, not a spec. Within a half inch is a match. Between sizes, we'd take the smaller pot for a finished tree and the larger one for a tree still in development — extra root run speeds a trunk up.
The pot swap itself is a spring job. The repotting guide covers the how and the when.
No black box
The whole method is one old rule plus its exceptions:
It's an aesthetic rule as much as a horticultural one: 2/3 keeps the tree's visual weight above the pot without dwarfing it. Growers bend it constantly — but they bend it knowingly, and now you can too.
The care sheet version
| Style | Pot shape | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| Formal upright | Rectangular | ≈ trunk caliper |
| Informal upright | Oval or rectangular | ≈ trunk caliper |
| Slanting | Rectangular, solid feet; tree planted off-center | ≈ trunk caliper |
| Semi-cascade | Round or square, medium-deep | 1.5–2× caliper |
| Cascade | Deep round or hexagonal cascade pot | 2–3× caliper |
| Literati | Shallow round drum (nanban) | shallow — at or under caliper |
More from the bench